Dress
PeriodCirca 1820
Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumCotton
Dimensions50.5 in. (128.3 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mrs. J. Amory Haskell, 1942
Object number1703
DescriptionA woman's dress of striped cotton, made as one piece, the bodice with a deep V neckline and high waist. The fabric stripes are pattern matched, emphasizing the V of the neck. The sleeves are slightly dropped, with the upper arms puffed and gathered with ruched banding spacers and piped seams. Simple straight long sleeves have been sewn to the inside of the upper sleeves with relatively crude running stitches, ending in simple double fold wrist hems. The skirt flares out only slightly, and includes two horizontal ornamental bands with the fabric set diagonally for contrast.Curatorial RemarksThis charming early 19th century gown probably dates between 1817 and 1823 or so. The waist, although made quite high under the bust, has started to move downward, creating an exaggerated "V" appearance in the silhouette of the wearer. The simple stripe, in primary colors of red and blue, now softly faded, has been used by the unknown maker to good effect particularly in creating a strong chevron diagonal along the bodice. The relatively complex gathers on the upper sleeves, along with the piped seams, points to a seamstress with relatively advanced dressmaking skills. The two hem bands are also interesting, as the maker has used the stripes to create an attractive diagonal pattern, giving some interesting visual dynamic to the overall effect. The mystery, however, is in the sleeves. The plain lower sleeves are simple tubes, attached to the underside of the upper puffs with simple, almost crude running stitches. The proper right sleeve is also a good four inches longer than the left sleeve. The reason for this jarring difference is unknown. In addition, the gown seems to be missing some of the usual dressmaking details, including the fact that the bodice has no lining whatsover, nor does the skirt or sleeves. Even gowns made at this time period for summer wear included a lightweight bodice, providing support for both wearer and to hold the shape of the gown itself, especially a gown made of such lightweight fabric.NotesAlthough this gown's original maker and/or owner is unknown, it is fairly certain that the garment was worn and most likely made in Monmouth County. The donor, Margaret Riker Haskell, is best known for her furniture and decorative arts collections. Haskell also had an eye for local textiles, including rare and interesting examples of local gowns and accessories. She donated a number of locally-made dresses to the Association's collection through the years.
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