Dress
PeriodCirca 1850 - 1855
Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumWool challis, linen, silk, brass
Dimensions54 in. (137.2 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineMuseum Collection
Object number1988.700
DescriptionA woman's gown of lightweight wool challis, printed in a brightly-colored pattern of vertical bands of shaded lilac and purple vines and leaves alternating with bands of intertwining pink and red flowers amidst shaded green leaves, with pale lavender vertical dashed line between the bands.The gown is constructed in one piece, with a dogleg skirt closure and brass hook-and-eye front bodice closure. The bodice includes a shallow boat neckline, dropped shoulder seams, long bell style sleeves, simple gathered "baby" bodice, elaborately cartridge pleated back bodice just above the waistband, piped seams, and a full skirt gathered to the gown's waistband with small, tight cartridge pleating. The gown is trimmed with 2" wide panels of ruched green silk, applied to neckline, bodice top, along the front closure, upper sleeves, and wrist edges. Three bands of green wool braid in graduated widths are applied in three strips along the skirt hem. The bottoms of the sleeves are faced with a pale pink plain woven solid wool challis. The gown's bodice and sleeves are lined with a lightweight off-white plain woven linen, while the skirt is entirely lined with a lightweight off-white glazed linen. An additional layer of the plain lightweight linen is sewn around the bottom of the skirt, cut with dagged edges along the top, approximately 10 inches in height. The entire gown appears to be hand sewn with delicate backstitch, running stitch, and whip stitching. The gown retains all its original brass hooks and eyes, sewn with a continuous thread.Curatorial RemarksAlthough we do not know the maker or owner of this charming mid-nineteenth century gown, the construction and sizing does tell us a bit about both maker and wearer. The unknown dressmaker was welll-trained. The construction of the entire dress reveals careful, tidy, and confident stitching, fitting, and finishing. Seams are carefully matched, and although the gown appears simple, many of the details make it stand out. The pale pink wool sleeve facings provide an eye-catching contrast with the green trim and floral patterned fabric. The lining of the bodice is well done, with all seams and fabric edges finished and well-fitted. The size of the gown itself indicates that the wearer was most likely a young woman, perhaps in her teens or very early twenties. The gown shows very little wear, and was never "updated" or reworked later on.NotesThis gown was assigned an earlier accession number T1974.65.
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