Gown
Period1868
Place MadeSan Francisco or New Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumSilk, cotton, steel
Dimensions62 × 22 in. (157.5 × 55.9 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mary Minturn Adams in memory of her Hartshorne Ancestors, 2018
Object number2018.10.27
DescriptionA woman's gown of vivid electric blue and black striped lightweight silk, constructed as one piece, with the fitted bodice attached at the waist to the skirt. The bodice includes a front closure consisting of steel hooks and eyes, a high round neck, slightly sloped shoulders with the seams edged with pinked plain blue silk and long shaped sleeves. The skirt includes a "dogleg" opening and fastening at the proper left hip. The skirt is constructed with gored front panels and a long train gathered with cartridge pleating to the back waistband. The skirt is relatively simply trimmed with ruffled bands of plain blue silk, scalloped with pinked edges. The bodice is lined with plain dark brown glazed cotton and retains the original pairs of whalebone strips for shaping. The hem is lined with sturdy brown cotton.Curatorial RemarksThe wardrobe of Julia Norton Hartshorne, carefully preserved and protected in the years following her untimely death at the age of thirty, provides a rare glimpse into virtually an entire wardrobe of one woman at one moment in time. It is not uncommon for special garments of one particular person to be saved over time from various special occasions. Julia's wardrobe, however, presents a slice of a moment in time in her fashion choices. Julia clearly loved the color combination of black and electric blue, as two of her gowns feature these bold and striking hues. This particular gown reveals the artistry of the unknown dressmaker, who relied upon the placement of the stripes to create chevrons deliberately placed at the dress's front, back, and down the sleeves. The dressmaker did not needlessly add trimmings or ruffles, and the gown's elegant silhouette and drape shine through. As with many of Julia's gowns, this garment includes a removable addition in the form of a sash and draped loop. The gown is in excellent condition, and was worn only a few times if at all before Julia's death in February of 1869. The dressmaker also created an unlined jacket of electric blue plush (see accession number 2018.10.28), which Julia could wear with either this gown or a black cotton gauze and electric blue silk trimmed gown (see accession number 2018.10.26).NotesJulia Norton was born in Buffalo, NY, on 19 November 1838, a daughter of Charles Norton (1805 - 1870) and Julia A. Maltby (1804 - 1875). Between 1854 and 1861, the four Norton children moved to San Francisco, CA. Their parents moved to join them in the winter of 1862. In the spring of 1861, Julia became engaged to Benjamin Minturn Hartshorne (1826 - 1900), son of Robert Hartshorne (1798 - 1872) and Mary Ann Minturn (1802 - 1861) of Highlands, NJ. The couple married in San Francisco on 13 February 1862. Julia and Benjamin had three children: Julia Norton (b. 1863), Robert (1866 - 1927), and Mary Minturn (b. 1867). From May through November of 1868, Julia, Benjamin and their three children made an extended visit to the east coast, staying at Portland with Ben's father. They also visited friends and relatives in the New York area. Shortly after returning to San Francisco, Julia Hartshorne contracted a serious illness requiring the care of physician Dr. Charles Bertody from 4 December through 3 February 1869. On 5 December 1868, the doctor vaccinated Ben and the children. This suggests that Julia may have been suffering from smallpox, as the vaccine for it was the only one in common usage at that time. Julia Norton Hartshorne died on 3 February 1869 at the age of thirty. For more biographical information, including letters by her father-in-law Robert Hartshorne describing his son's wife to other family members, please see the portrait of Julia Norton Hartshorne 1999.7. The Association also has a portrait miniature of Julia Hartshorne (please see 2018.10.1.)
Collections
ProvenanceJulia Norton Hartshorne (1837 - 1869) to her husband Benjamin Minturn Hartshorne (1826 - 1900) to his son Robert Hartshorne (1866 - 1927) to his son Richard Hartshorne (1900 - 1958) to his sister Mary "Polly" Minturn Hartshorne Noonan (1897 - 1978) to her daughter to her daughter Mary Ellen Noonan Adams (1922 - 2011) to her daughter and donor Mary Minturn Adams
