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Wedding Dress

PeriodCirca 1856
Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumSilk taffeta, silk satin, silk fringe, glazed cotton
Dimensions54 in. (137.2 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Lucretia, Mary Louise, and Josephine Keener, 1947
Object number3057
DescriptionA woman's one-piece gown of drab grayish brown silk taffeta, with a front dogleg waist closure. The bodice includes a high, round neckline, long sleeves closely fitted to the upper arm, then flaring out to moderate bell sleeves. The bodice front is constructed with multiple bust darts. The skirt is gathered with four rows of cartridge pleating stitches to the waistband. The bodice is flatlined with sturdy brown cotton, while the skirt is flatlined with a lighter weight glazed brown cotton. The bodice also includes an attached inner left and right laceup panel, both with whalebone stays.The sleeves are trimmed with dull sage green silk fringe. The bell portion of the sleeves is faced with sage green silk satin. The gown's hem is edged with sturdy wool braid.
Curatorial RemarksThe modern tradition of brides wearing white wedding dresses dates to around the turn of the 19th century. Prior to that time, although white was a popular choice for brides, many young women opted to wear other colors for practicality. A white gown would have limited post-wedding use, while a good silk gown in a fashionable color could be worn for many years. The Historical Association has wedding gowns in gray, blue, black, bottle green, brown, and even heavy maroon moire corded silk. Mary Frank was one such bride. She chose one of the "drab" colors so popular during the very late 1840s and into the 1850s and most likely wore it for special occasions after her wedding in the fall of 1856.. It is clear that she stored it carefully as there are virtually no stains or damage to the gown. Mary would have also added accessories such as a fine white lace and embroidered collar, sash or ribbon belt, white undersleeves, a pretty shawl, and a good bonnet to enhance the gown itself.NotesLakewood resident Mary Frank wore this silk taffeta gown at her wedding to Frederick Keener on September 23, 1956. Mary, whose name sometimes appears as Marie in census records, was born in Germany and emigrated to the United States sometime before her marriage. Frederick was born in Switzerland and was living with his family before his marriage in Point Pleasant. Frederick worked as a "moulder" for the Bergen Iron Works, while Mary raised the family's seven children. Frederick Keener worked for the firm for at least thirty years. His obituary described Keener as "one of the oldest residents of Lakewood." Mary's carefully preserved wedding gown was donated to the Historical Association by her three surviving daughters, Lucretia, Mary Louise, and Josephine, in 1947.
Collections
ProvenanceMary Frank Keener (1835 - 1894) to her daughters Josephine (1868 - 1954), Lucretia (1870 - 1960), and Mary Louise (1877 - 1959) Keener