Pair of Women's Shoe Buckles
PeriodCirca 1770-1785
Place MadeWilmington, Delaware, U.S.A.
MediumPossibly Bath metal
Dimensions2.5 × 2 × 0.13 in. (6.4 × 5.1 × 0.3 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mrs. John P. Luyster, 1931
Object number2024.519
DescriptionA pair of woman's shoe buckles, oval in shape, with decorative pierced rim. A six-lobed flower at the top and bottom of each buckle is flanked with shallow scrolling, while a "pretzel" style open knot motif is placed at left and right. The buckles retain their original chape and tongue, both of which are simply yet sturdily made, with a wide ovoid chape with two short spikes, and a tongue with a U-shaped pair of spikes. The maker's hallmark is on the back of both buckles.Curatorial RemarksThese charming oval buckles, given their size and shape, most likely fastened the buckle straps of a woman's shoes. The metal appears to be what was known as "Bath metal," an alloy made of brass, zinc, and a small amount of silver. Buckles of this material were less expensive than their silver counterparts, and could be buffed to a soft shine for a bit of gleam. The majority of buckles were made in the Birmingham area of England during the second half of the 18th century. More than 25 million pairs of buckles were churned out in the region's workshops, many of them ending up in the American colonies. There were, however, many silversmiths in the larger city centers of the colonies making their own buckles as well. Cities such as Philadelphia and New York offered fashionable accessories such as buckles. These metalworkers could also repair damaged or broken buckles.NotesAlthough the exact owner and wearer of these delicate and attractive shoe buckles is unknown, the set descended within the Luyster family of Middletown. Originally from Holland, Luysters settled in Monmouth County from the later 1600s on. As successful farmers, the Luysters were able to afford fine consumer goods including painted furniture from New York, elegant blue and white delft pottery from England and Holland, and a variety of personal accessories and garments. The buckles are stamped with the hallmark of James Kendall. Born in 1768, Kendall settled in Wilmington, Delaware, where he practiced his trade as silversmith and jeweler until his death in 1808. Kendall was a Quaker and on at least one occasion, paid a fine to New Castle County rather than serve in the county's militia unit. Kendall's extensive estate inventory, taken in March of 1808 by Thomas McConnell, a fellow silversmith, and John White, reveals that he not only worked as a silversmith but ran a well-stocked shop offering a wide variety of household goods, accessories, tablewares, and adornments. Kendall's inventory included 22 white dessert plates, 36 blue and green edged dishes, 11 white baking dishes, 8 sauce boats, 17 dozen blue and green edged muffin plates, 17 mustard pots, and much else. Many silver items were listed, including silver sugar tongs, silver pincushion bands, gold and silver thimbles, gold rings, earrings and breast pins, knee buckles, and hat buckles. Also included were silversmith's tools, bellows, and sundries. The Kendall household was comfortably furnished, and included chairs, beds and bedding, extensive cooking and kitchen wares, and, in a final entry, "some sour cyder in a Barrell." Kendall's estate was estimated at L778.81.
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