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Dress

PeriodCirca 1880 - 1890
Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumPrinted cotton, wooden buttons
Dimensions50 in. (127 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineMuseum Collection
Object number1999.514
DescriptionA woman work dress, known as a "Mother Hubbard," of printed off-white cotton in a patterned red stripe. The gown is constructed with a round neck and square collar and close-fitting shaped sleeves with cuffs of the same material set diagonally for contrast. The gown is a step-in style, with front closure from neck to knees consisting of 24 large round wooden buttons. The entire dress is lined with off-white cotton. The dress is loosely fitted, with pairs of waist darts at left and right sides. At the back, a semblance of bustle is achieved with the addition of gathered pleating. The hem includes a five inch deep border ruffle.
Curatorial RemarksThis simple printed cotton dress is known as a "Mother Hubbard," referring to an early 18th century English nursery rhyme character. The Mother Hubbard, with its loose fit and casual appearance, was popular for little girls' dresses. When worn by women, it was intended as a work garment, maternity wear, or for casual use within the home. At the height of its popularity in the last quarter of the 19th century, numerous towns and cities passed ordinances against the Mother Hubbard being worn in public. An 1884 newspaper article in the Red Bank Daily Register noted that Omaha and Kansas City had "issued proclamations declaring that the Mother Hubbard costume worn by women was indecent and vulgar..." In 1886, Burlington County, New Jersey, issued its own proclamation, permitting women to wear Mother Hubbards only "in their own houses, grounds or adjoining, or on the doorsteps thereof; in the streets if the dresses are belted or otherwise confined at the waist, or if the wearer be accompanied by an escort." Regardless of the antipathy towards Mother Hubbards, they remained highly popular with women who wanted a loose-fitting, comfortable, easily laundered garment. During the 19th century, missionaries to areas such as Tahiti introduced the Mother Hubbard style of dress to native residents. Over time, the garment was transformed by Pacific Islanders into a colorful wardrobe staple, still worn in many areas.
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