Round Gown
Periodcirca 1780 - 1800
MediumSilk, linen, cotton
Dimensionsneck to hem front and waist circumfrence: 50 × 30 in. (127 × 76.2 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Florence Maisel, 1946
Object number2097.1
DescriptionA woman's dress of the style known as a "round gown," of simple plain weave olive drab silk. The dress has a front closure bodice consisting of two flaps which overlap and are pinned into place, forming a shallow gently rounded neckline. The back of the bodice is sewn to the back portion of the skirt, while the front of the skirt is sewn to two tapes which fasten around the waist apron-style. The dress sleeves are long and somewhat closefitting. The bodice is lined with off white twilled cotton, while the sleeves are lined in three different fabrics, including a small printed cotton calico.Curatorial RemarksWhile it has long been accepted that Quaker clothing of the eighteenth century was made in plain style, with subdued colors, recent research by textile scholars into Quaker costume has revealed numerous contradictions in this long-held belief. Examination of known Quaker women's garments reveal that in many instances these garments were indistinguishable from clothing worn by any woman of the time. Individual choice, not a codified system of dress, was the deciding factor in what Quakers wore. While Quaker founder George Fox (1624 - 1691) urged his fellow Quakers to "keep to your plain fashion," his wife Margaret cautioned against placing too great an emphasis on outward trappings of godliness. The dress itself is modeled on the particular style of one-piece dress known as the "round gown" which came into popularity around 1790 and, with minor changes to sleeve construction and waist height, remained in fashion through the first two decades of the 19th century. The dress's skirt is made apron style in front, with the front part of the skirt pleated, gathered, and sewn to a waist tape. This tape is tied around the waist, effectively closing the skirt. Two generous bodice flaps then closed over the wearer's chest and fastened with pins. This dress style was easily adaptable to almost any woman's figure and would accomodate weight gain and loss, including that experienced during pregnancy. The dress is constructed of a fine quality silk/linen blend in a subdued greenish gray. Close examination of the dress reveals finely worked seams. It is also evident that the dress was originally made sometime around 1780 but was reworked later in or around 1800, with the waist shortened and necklne and sleeves altered. The dress seems to have been used as a work dress after its usefulness as a "good" gown was past; extensive darning and patching are evident, especially in the underarm and elbow areas. A related quilted petticoat (accession 2097.2), black silk bonnet (accession 2097.3), drawstring purse (accession 2097.4), and a group of silk kerchiefs and handkerchiefs (accession 2097.5) were also part of the original 1946 donation. While the color of the dress, the petticoat, and the kerchiefs are all subdued, caution must be exercised in identifying these garments as "Quaker" based on color alone. Dull olive green, mossy gray, tan, and other such "drab" tones were popular choices during the last quarter of the eighteenth century by both Quakers and women who preferred a more muted wardrobe palette. See also the quilted petticoat (2097.2), bonnet (2097.3), reticule or drawstring purse (2097.4), and group of kerchiefs and handkerchiefs (2097.5), which were donated at the same time as the round gown and were most likely owned and worn by the same woman.NotesThis dress was donated to the Historical Association in 1946 along with a bonnet, a quilted petticoat, a reticule (drawstring purse), six kerchiefs, and two handkerchiefs, and is the earliest complete women's ensemble in the collection. At the time of the gift, a brief notation in the original records describes the dress and accessories as a "Quaker costume," but does not give specfiic information regarding the original ownership of the garments. While the color of the dress and accompanying accessories are certainly subdued, caution must be exercised in identifying these garments as "Quaker" on color alone. Dull olive green, mossy gray, tan, and other such "drab" tones were both common and popular choices during the last quarter of the eighteenth century by both Quakers and those women who preferred a more muted fashion palette.
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