Embroidered Picture

Maker Mary E. Forman

Period1847

MediumPlied wool thread on linen

Dimensions17 × 17.5 in. (43.2 × 44.5 cm)

SignedThe work is signed "M. E. Forman. / 1847."

ClassificationsNeedlework

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Evalina Ivins

Object number1986.569

DescriptionA richly colored and boldly patterned Berlin wool work square on sturdy linen, worked in vibrant shades of bright red, brick red, russet red, dark green, olive green, medium green, dark blue, medium blue, sky blue, pale pink, rose, deep pink, lilac, purple, gray, and cream white plied wool yarns. The sampler centers on a large floral arrangement including roses, morning glories, forget-me-nots, and carnations, with two small butterflies. Above the central motif is worked a rampant eagle perched atop a branch. Beneath the floral center is the signature line, worked in bright pink, "M. E. Forman. / 1847." A florid border surrounds the central motifs and includes roses, pansies, and forget-me-nots amid feathered branches and leaves. The entire ground fabric is worked in cream white wool. Along the narrow hemmed edges of the the linen ground, fine red silk thread creates a tiny pulled-thread border around the wool work. The panel was originally framed and retains evidence of old brad holes with accompanying dark staining.

Curatorial RemarksMary Elizabeth Forman's needlework creation was known generally as Berlin wool work, often referred to in the nineteenth century as "tapestry." With the invention and development of chemically-based aniline dyes beginning in the 1830s, brightly colored wool embroidery thread quickly became popular. Berlin work embroidery relied on color, rather than intricate stitching, for its visual impact. Commericially designed and printed graph patterns were introduced in Germany in the early 19th century. The paper patterns were charted on a graph and printed in black and white, then hand-colored. Later Berlin work patterns were printed in full color, making it easy for embroiderers to complete attractive, cheerful needlework decorations for the home. In addition to pictorial needlework pieces such as Mary Elizabeth Forman's floral panel, Berlin work embroidery was used for seat and cushion covers, table mats, and even slippers. Magnificent Berlin wool work embroideries were displayed in 1851 at London's Great Exhibition, further fueling its popularity. Mary Elizabeth Forman's unknown needlework instructress most likely had a selection of Berlin work patterns available for her students to use. The pair of butterflies, simply designed and shaded, were not part of the original sophisticated pattern but were probably added by Mary herself.NotesMary Elizabeth Forman was born on 7 April 1833 in Millstone Township, Monmouth County, the second of three children of William P. Forman (1807 - 1886) and Evalina Baird (1805 - 1883). They were married on 12 March 1828. Forman was a prosperous farmer. Mary married John Van Mater (1831 - 1898) on 11 May 1870. The couple lived in Colts Neck. Both Mary Elizabeth and her husband John are interred in Maplewood Cemetery in nearby Freehold. The donor, Mrs. Evalina Forman Van Mater Ivins (1871 - 1951), was their daughter.

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