Short Gown

Periodca. 1800 - 1820

MediumPrinted cotton calico

Dimensions17.6 × 26 in. (44.7 × 66 cm)

ClassificationsCostume, Women's

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Charles G. Bennett and Miss Louise Hartshorne, 1935

Object number860

DescriptionA simply constructed short gown of inexpensive woven cotton calico in a small red and white pattern, the pattern of which contains several imperfections. The gown is constructed of three large pattern pieces: left bodice front, right bodice front, and back panel. The back and front are sewn together along the sides, with the addition of small triangular hip gussets. The shallow, wide boat neck has a narrow drawstring casing. The waist has a simple, narrow tucked drawstring casing. The garment originally had two sleeves, now missing. It is unlined.
Curatorial RemarksThis unassuming and simply made woman's garment, known as a short gown, may well be the single rarest item in the Association's extensive historic clothing collection. While garments made for special occasions such as weddings were often carefully preserved and saved, the clothing men and women wore every day on the farm, in the field, and by the hearth were generally used up until there was nothing left. This short gown is unusual in that the identity of its owner was as carefully preserved as the object itself by the family for whom its wearer worked. The short gown was part of virtually every woman's wardrobe of the day. The garment required little in the way of fine tailoring, allowing it to be made relatively quickly, with a small amount of fabric. Its construction also allowed for free movement - vital to a woman who spent her days bending over a cooking fire, caring for children, or washing and cleaning. As it was not closely fitted, the short gown was also easy to alter. Years of washing and wear has faded the gown's red to a soft pink, while several of the seams are worn and frayed. Its original sleeves, whcih would have been loose-fitting and elbow-length, were removed at some point. Remnants of cotton thread appear along the shoulder seams. Two other items in the Association's collection pertain to Betty Dorn - a small pencil portrait sketch (accession number 209) and a three-slat rush bottom armchair (accession number 207).NotesWhen donated to the collection in 1935, Susannah Hartshorne Bennett and her sister Louise Hartshorne described the short gown as "Pink calico waist. Belonged to a colored woman named Betty." This is another item associated with Elizabeth "Betty" Dorn, an African-American who was born about 1760, possibly in Monmouth County. She worked for the family of Esek Hartshorne (1728 - 1795), a successful farmer who owned almost 800 acres of the family estate called Portland, plus a half interest in Sandy Hook. At some point after Hartshorne's death, Betty moved to the home of his daughter Elizabeth (1771 - 1849) and her husband Tylee Williams (1768 - 1828) in Shrewsbury. Her presence must have been welcomed as between 1792 and 1818 Elizabeth gave birth to eleven children. After the death of her husband, the widow Elizabeth joined the household of her eldest son, Edmund Tylee Williams (1804 - 1888). Apparently so did Betty Dorn, as she was listed there in the 1830 census as a female "55 and Under 100" in the "Free Colored Persons" category. The 1850 census again listed her, this time by her full name "Elizabeth Dorn," age 90, and a "free black female" still living with the Williams family. Betty Dorn died on 28 September 1850. Her obituary appeared in a local newspaper, "On the 28th Sept. last, very suddenly, at the residence of Edmund T. Williams, Shrewsbury, N. J., Betty, aged about 85 years, an honored and faithful domestic in the family of Tylee Williams,Dec'd, upwards of 55 years, and previously in that of his father-in-law Esek Hartshorne dec'd for an indefinite time. She was remarkable for honesty, fidelity, and strong attachment to the family, participating alike in their joy and sorrow. She was interred in the Friends burial ground, Shrewsbury, attended by the children, great-grandchildren, and other relatives of the deceased employers. Long will her memory be cherished."

Collections

ProvenanceBy descent in the Hartshorne family to Susannah Pelletreau Hartshorne Bennett (Mrs. Charles G.) and her sister Miss Louise Hartshorne.