Bonnet
PeriodCirca 1850-1855
Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumStraw, silk, matte silk gauze
Dimensions9 × 7.5 × 8.5 in. (22.9 × 19.1 × 21.6 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineMuseum Collection
Object number2025.502
DescriptionA woman's bonnet of black dyed braided straw, with a relatively straight crown, circular tip, extended cheek tabs ending in points, and slightly flared brim. Black dyed and stiffened silk crepe is lightly gathered and sewn around the bonnet tip and around the front of the crown, and sewn as a wide binding around the entire brim edge, around the tabs, and along the nape. Additional lengths of crepe are gathered and sewn as short ruffles or abbreviated bavolet along the neck edge. Functional chin ties of very wide (3 inch) woven black silk ribbon are folded and tack sewn to the chin tabs. The inside brim edge is decorated with gathered, puffed, and ruched black silk crepe.Curatorial RemarksAlthough black was often connected to death and mourning in the eighteenth century, it was Queen Victoria who elevated mourning wear to its peak during the Victorian era. After the death of her beloved consort Prince Albert in 1861, Victoria wore black for the rest of her reign.Mourning became highly regulated. Who wore black, under what conditions, and for how long were extensively described in books of manners, magazines, and newspapers. Wives in particular were expected to don complete black for at least the first year after a spouse's death. Mourning fabrics were expected to be matte finished, without gleam or shine. After the first period of mourning, some color could be introduced, such as gray or lilac, often known as "half mourning." Crepe fabric was developed to answer the need for a matte finish fabric. Woven silk, dyed black, was mechanically pressed and molded, then stiffened with glue or similar product, removing all shine and resulting in a puckered, textured surface. Crepe was tied around top hats, draped on doors and used as bonnet trimming and veiling. Once wet or even damp, crepe had an annoying tendency to run, staining anything nearby, and losing its texture. Men were not expected to change their usual wardrobes, perhaps donning a more somber silk waistcoat and pinning a black fabric band around the upper arm of a suit coat. Both men and women could carry black-edged handkerchiefs. Mourning was also a serious expense, and many could not afford to replace entire wardrobes. Black silk or black crepe fabric, or even a simple length of black cotton, could be fashioned into armbands worn by both men and women. In the first few months of mourning, the unknown wearer of this bonnet would have draped the front with black netting or sheer black crepe.NotesAlthough the owner and wearer of this bonnet is unknown, what is certain is that the owner purchased this item to wear after the loss of a close loved one, most likely a husband or child. The bonnet's shape is relatively fashionable, but the crepe trimmings are added in a manner which might suggest either home trimming or decoration by a local town milliner. The bonnet's survival is somewhat unusual, as the dyes used to create the straw and crepe often or "bled" when damp or wet. Straw bonnets were in general relatively delicate, prone to crushing or damage if not stored carefully. The bonnet was not worn often, as there are few signs of extensive wear. Whoever wore the bonnet put it away carefully after its final wearing in order for it to survive in such excellent condition.
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