Purse
PeriodCirca 1800 - 1820
Place MadeProbably France
MediumLeather, tortoiseshell, paper, silver, German steel
Dimensions4.5 × 6.5 × 1.5 in. (11.4 × 16.5 × 3.8 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mrs. E. J. Finch, 1967
Object numberT1974.193
DescriptionA woman's handbag, constructed of pale buff leather stamped with gilt border bands of stylized acanthus leaves. Two large rectangular panels of thin flat tortoiseshell with mottled caramel brown, tan, and pale golden yellow tones are attached to the front and back of the handbag with small silver brads with faceted heads. Shaped leather flaps fold over the handbag both front and back, fastening with shield shaped silver lock panels. The locks open by pressing a small central brad upwards, releasing the tab catch. The flaps open to reveal a sectioned interior, lined with pale yellow fine chamois leather. The bag includes two heavy worked silver/German silver wrist chains, fastening to the upper corners of the tortoiseshell panels with flat silver escutcheons.Curatorial RemarksThis charming handbag dates to the very early years of the nineteenth century, between about 1800 and 1820. By this time, the fabric pockets worn around women's waists during the 18th century had fallen out of fashion due to the narrow silhouette and exaggeratedly high waistlines of the period. Instead, women began to carry separate purses, handbags, pouches, and reticules. This particular bag would have been carried during the day. The bag is double-sided, appearing the same both front and back. The soft gilt-stamped leather is highlighted with two rectangular panels of figured tortoiseshell. Tortoiseshell, made from the shells of such animals as the Hawksbill sea turtle, were prized for their lightweight, attractive and, when cut thin, their almost translucent quality. Tortoiseshell could be shaped, carved, and even heated or steamed and bent into a variety of shapes. Tortoiseshell was also popular for large hair combs necessary to hold the braids and coils of hairstyles in place.
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