Images(2)

Shawl Fragment

PeriodCirca 1860

Place MadeU.S.A.

Mediumwool

Dimensions3.75 × 5.75 in. (9.5 × 14.6 cm)

InscribedThe shawl fragment entered the collection in a brown paper mailing envelope, with a pencil inscription reading "#3035 MCHA / Piece of shawl worn by A. Lincoln / during visit to Buffalo NY, worn while / making speech at the Mansion House / on Exchange St. / Shawl given to a Mr. Eberhardt of Kenmore NY who / cut it up in small pieces (moth eaten) from whom my father seccured this piece. / Capt. Willis C. Conover (Box 69 Red Bank) / US Army Retired / Middletown NJ."

ClassificationsCostume, Men's

Credit LineGift of Captain Willis C. Conover, 1946

Object number3035

DescriptionA rectangular fragment of a shawl, in a dark brown and tan twisted wool weave. Side one shows a pattern of small checks, while side two shows a pattern of barred crosses.
Curatorial RemarksDuring the 19th century, shawls remained a popular fashion choice as well as a practical way to keep warm. During the 1850s and 1860s, many women opted for shawls - usually square and folded diagonally to form a triangle - as they were easy to drape over the ever-increasing hoop skirts of the period. But men also wore shawls, usually at home or in relatively casual settings.Although shawls were accepted public and even dress wear for women during this time period, a man who opted to wear a shawl was considered unfashionable. Abraham Lincoln wore shawls frequently, often while at work in his office, at home, and even while traveling. Lincoln deliberately chose clothing and accessories to accentuate his height as well as his "frontier" roots. During his trip from Springfield, Illinois to Washington, D.C. in February of 1861 on the way to his inauguration as President, Lincoln used shawls to keep warm. Lincoln draped a shawl over his shoulders and changed his hat in order to disguise himself after threats of an assassination attempt when he reached Baltimore became known. White House staff recalled Lincoln wearing a shawl while working. Lincoln also wore shawls while out riding in his carriage or even while enjoying the latest play at Ford's Theater. Several museums have "Lincoln shawls" in their collections, including one in the Lincoln Financial Foundation Collection in the Illinois State Museum. The movie "Lincoln" includes numerous scenes of actor Daniel Day-Lewis as Lincoln with a shawl draped over his shoulders while working and while waiting for news in the State Department.NotesThe original notes which accompanied the shawl fragment indicate that it was originally in the possession of Rowland J. Conover (1856 - 1929). Conover was a businessman and for a time was comptroller of the Lakeside Cemetery in Buffalo. Rowland would have been five when Lincoln visited Buffalo while traveling to Washington, D.C. for the inauguration. Rowland's father, Daniel S. Conover (1831-1906), fought in the Civil War and was a member of the Grand Army of the Republic in the years following the end of the conflict. The "Mr. Eberhardt" from whom Rowland Conover procured the small textile fragment has not yet been identified. Willis C. Conover, one of Rowland's four sons and donor of the Lincoln shawl fragment, enlisted in the Navy in 1911 and later joined the Army, serving in France during World War I. Conover was awarded the Purple Heart and Silver Star with Oak Leaf Cluster. Conover remained in the Army until 1934 when he retired as a captain. During World War II, Conover worked as superindendent of shipping for the American Red Cross. After the war, Conover moved to Monmouth County, first living in Eatontown, then in the Red Bank area. He died in 1964 at the age of 69 and was buried in Arlington National Cemetery.

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