Dolman Coat
PeriodCirca 1880
Place MadeNew York, New York, U.S.A.
MediumWool, cotton, silk
Dimensions38 in. (96.5 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineMuseum Collection
Object number2022.533
DescriptionA woman's fitted coat, known as a dolman, of black wool broadcloth, with a standing collar and front closure, fastened with brass hooks and eyes, with a row of large circular false buttons sewn down the length of the right edge opening. The dolman's sleeves are constructed in an open style, with shaped panels over the wearer's arms. The front of the dolman is heavily ornamented with bold black guimpe trim, sewn into large tight coils and swirls. The left and right front panels end in elongated rounded tabs, trimmed with bobble fringe. The coat retains its original retailer's label reading "Frederick Loesser & Co., NYC." sewn to the inside back collar.Curatorial RemarksThis coat, known as a dolman, was specifically designed not only to provide warmth to the wearer but to accomodate the distinctive needs of the fashionable bustle silhouette. The long front tabs skimmed along the relatively flat front of skirts of the time, while the shortened back panels accomodated the full sweep of the bustle and skirt ruffles. Although black garments are so often considered "mourning wear," black was also simply a popular and perennial fashion choice. With its glittering jet beading, this dolman not have been suitable as mourning wear, but instead a stylish wardrobe accessory.NotesAlthough the owner of this stylish dolman coat is unknown, the garment retains its maker's tag, "Frederick Loeser & Co. NYC." Frederick Loeser was born in 1833 in Megentheim, Germany. His father was a silversmith, while his mother died when Frederick was still very young. At the age of 14, he was apprenticed to a maker of dress trimmings, fringes, and buttons. After a few years, Loeser struck out on his own, traveling through Austria, Switzerland, and France working as a journeyman trimmings maker. In 1853 at the age of 20, Loeser emigrated to the United States. His obituary mentioned the fact that Loeser had only $2.50 in his pocket upon arriving in New York City. He struggled to establish himself in the city, and soon relocated to Kentucky. Family members there were engaged in the fur trade and Loeser joined them in the business. By 1857 Loeser returned to New York City to try again. He married fellow German immigrant Mathilde Dinkelspiel and opened a small trimmings and ribbon store with his brother-in-law Morris Dinkelspiel. The partners' first shop was on Fulton Street in Brooklyn. Their shop was a success, and the two opened a second store in 1870. In 1887 the original firm was dissolved by mutual consent with the Liebmann Brothers, who had purchased an interest in Loeser's original business. Frederick Loeser almost immediately reorganized and moved to 484 Fulton Street. This new establishment was large and luxurious, with all the most up-to-date features including telephones, electric lighting, elegant restrooms, elevators, and even escalators. An newspaper article in March of 1887 noted that the new store had "every appliance conducive to the comfort and welfare of the shopping public," gushing over the "ash and mahogany" paneling adorned with "gold and bronze" highlights. Shoppers could even purchase tickets to Broadway shows at the store's ticket department. The store's inventory greatly expanded, including not only ribbons, trims, fringe, and embroidery but smaller household furnishings including roller shades, decor items, and ready-made garments. Frederick Loeser continued in the firm until retiring in 1897, leaving the running of the company to his sons and partners. Loeser returned to Germany after retirement and died there in 1911.
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